The uses and equivalent of biogas

1 cubic meter of biogas is equal to:

Illumination equaling that of a 60-100 watt bulb for 6 hours.
5.2 kg of CCl4 (Carbon tetrachloride)
0.7 kg petrol
can run a 1 horse-power motor for 2 hours
can generate 1.25 k electricity
can drive a 3-tonne lorry 2.8 km
can cook 3 meals for a family of 5-6



ARTI Style Methane Generator System


It really is just two plastic barrels, one inverted inside the other, with three pipes -- one to get the food in, one to take the liquid fertilizer out and one at the top to deliver the gas to your cookstove or generator. 1000 liter tanks should get you about 2 hours of cooking gas a day if you live in a warm climate.

Cows eat food, not manure, and the bacteria in the cows stomach and intestines also eat that food, mixed with saliva and water. The goal is to replicate the inside of a cow's digestive tract to help the bacteria get the most energy from the food.

We only use the dung/manure to"innoculate" the system on the first day because it is the easiest non-invasive way of getting the "bacterial biogas experts" out of the animals' guts and into the tank.

In many respects making biogas is similar to making yoghurt. If you have a friend who has an active culture of methanogens from their own biogas digester (or from a septic tank, or from their baby's diaper just put them in. If you don't use manure, however, I'm not sure what or how much to feed them in the beginning.

Start up:

  1. The process working with mesophils from animal dung, however, is started very simply by taking about 40 or 50 kg (maybe 4 to 6 10 or 15 liter buckets) of manure (we used horse manure in Germany, cow manure in Egypt, but any manure will do) and mix it into the bottom container with water (this is per 200 liters of water but we just go ahead and fill the whole thing even up to a 1000 liters of water; it may make the wait time for first flammable gas a bit longer as it takes the bacteria time to reproduce and fill that volume, but it worked fine for us as we didn't want to haul in more manure.). Then put the top barrel on and open the top valve so all the air escapes and the top barrel sinks down into the bottom barrel all the way.
  2.  You then close the valve at the top so no air can get in and just let it sit there for anywhere from 2 weeks to a month (depending on climate). During this boring period the bacteria will multiply. At first they will just produce CO2. After a few weeks open the valve and flame test with a candle (we didn't use a flashback arrestor! Doh! :) ) . The first couple of times the escaping gas will blow out the candle. Eventually, after a few days, the methane content will exceed 50%.
  3. Once the gas starts to burn you can start feeding your digester ground up food waste (mixed in a blender with water, about 1 to 2 Kg a day, but start slowly so as not to overwhelm the bacteria; start with 200 grams then 400 the next day etc.). Soon the CH4 content at the top of the tank will exceed 60% (since CO2 is water soluble it can get up to 70%) and can be directly used in cook stoves and engines. Hope that helps explain it. It works well and is fairly simple you'll find. Give it a try !
Note:

Remember you only have to put the manure in THE VERY FIRST DAY. After this no more manure is needed.

The current process of biomethanation, which uses feedstocks like cattle dung, human feces, distillery effluents etc. is highly inefficient, because the nutritionally available calories and nutritive value of those substances is quite low. 

ARTI developed in 2003 a new biogas technology which uses high calorie feedstock, consisting of starchy or sugary material. This material is capable of producing about 250 kg of methane per ton of feedstock (on a dry weight basis) and the reaction takes only 1 day to complete. In the case of a household biogas system, application of daily just 1 kg of feedstock is enough to provide a family with sufficient biogas to cook all the meals. The material that can be used as feedstock in the new biogas system consists of waste grain, seed of any plant species, oilcake of non-edible oilseeds as well as nonmarketable or nonedible fruits (wild species of ficus, overripe mango and banana). Even the flour mill can be used as feedstock.

Read full story here: http://solarcities.blogspot.com/2009/09/animation-of-simple-telescoping-biogas.html

Biogas fuel without end

Biodigester in a glasshouse to maintain the temperature.

The glasshouse temperature reach 20 degree celcius.

Biogas is safe(?)

Blue flame from methane biodigester.

Parameters to consider in running a biogas digester

The parameters are: 
  1. Acidity - Anaerobic digestion will occur best within a pH range of 6.8 to 8.0.
  2. Carbon-nitrogen ration (C/N) - a carbon - nitrogen ratio of about 30 - 1 is ideal for the raw material fed into a biogas plant.
  3. Temperature control - A temperature between 32°C and 35°C has proven most efficient for stable and continuous production of methane. but the action of the digesting bacteria will decrease sharply below 16°C.
  4. Percentage of solids - Anaerobic digestion of organics will proceed best if the input material consists of roughly 8 % solids. In the case of fresh cow manure, this is the equivalent of dilution with roughly an equal quantity of water.
  5. Plant design - above or below ground. There are pros and cons with either types.
  6. Continuous/batch operation - there are pros and cons with either types.
  7. Stirring - stirring the slurry in a digester is always advantageous, if not essential.
  8. Gas collection - A non-return valve here is a valuable investment to prevent air being drawn into the digester, which would destroy the activity of the bacteria and provide a potentially explosive mixture inside the drum.
  9. The level of carbon dioxide and proportion of methane will give valuable information about the state of the fermentation process as well. Infrared sensors are the best means employed today for this purpose. The need for calibration is minimal or nonexistent and the small size, relatively low cost and minimal power consumption make them ideal for this type of application.
More info: http://www.habmigern2003.info/biogas/methane-digester.html

Construction of a Hestia biogas digester

A general rule is that the tank needs to be 50 times the size of the daily input to allow for some space for gas to collect. If your input is 15 gallons of material per day, you’d need a 750-gallon tank.

Hestia biodigesters are approximately 5 by 7 feet wide by 5 feet deep, providing about 700 gallons of capacity. Slurry occupies about 600 gallons of this biodigester; the remaining space is for the gas that’s produced.

There’s an inlet for adding feedstock and an outlet for removing composted slurry.

A closed loop of PEX tubing in the bottom of the tank is plumbed to an on-demand water heater to add heat when the slurry temperature drops below 50°F—the temperature at which cryophilic methanogenic bacteria go dormant and stop producing gas.

If the climate is mild, it may be enough to build a hoop house over the tank to keep the slurry sufficiently warm in winter. Alternatively, the biodigester could be allowed to go dormant during the colder months.



More info: http://energez.blogspot.com/2012/04/video-hestia-home-biogas-plant.html

Need Biogas Now?

Biogas digester troubleshooting

Anaerobic organisms require four conditions to produce gas effectively:

  1. A constant temperature between 95 and 100°F (35 and 38°C). Gas is produced at lower temperatures, but only in very small amounts over an extended period of time.
  2. The exclusion of oxygen. A septic tank is not designed to keep out oxygen. Granted, some oxygen is excluded by virtue of the water in which the organic matter is transported, but a septic tank is not a sealed system.
  3. A gentle mixing action. The bacteria that produce methane either have to be transported to their nourishment or their nourishment has to be taken to them. Gentle motion accomplishes this.
  4. Anaerobic digestion will occur best within a pH range of 6.8 to 8.0. More acidic or basic mixtures will ferment at a lower speed. The introduction of raw material will often lower the pH (make the mixture more acidic). Digestion will stop or slow dramatically until the bacteria have absorbed the acids. A high pH will encourage the production of acidic carbon dioxide to neutralise the mixture again.
Conditions usually slowing the reactions includes:

Too acidic. Generally if there’s a problem, it’s that the slurry is too acidic (pH below 7). If there is a lot of new, raw, green material placed in the digester or if too much material is added at once, the acid-forming bacteria have a field day. The methane bacteria are so annoyed by the high acid concentration, they simply can’t function. When this occurs, it can take a long time for the methane process to get underway naturally. Low pH is a constant risk and must be countered by plenty of carbon waste, such as leaves and straw, or wood ashes.

If a measured amount of new material—no more than one-fortieth of the total liquid volume of the tank—is added, then the new material has to be dilute enough not to upset the balance. At startup, though, there’s a lack of microorganisms and an inclination toward excessive acidity. Understanding this, we can see why some of the early literature on making methane states that the startup time can be anywhere from three weeks to three months.

I mentioned the acidity problem to a friend with whom I was working at the time. He said, “I make a lot of wine at home. Every once in awhile, I have the same problem. When I do, I add a little baking soda. It straightens out the condition right away.”

The baking soda added to my digester worked like a charm. Within three days, I had methane on the way. This is the secret for keeping your digester sweet and happy. Just add a little at a time until the pH is just right. If the pH keeps dropping, add baking soda periodically until the acid-forming bacteria are no longer producing excessive acid. Don’t be fooled if a lot of gas is produced. The baking soda itself will produce some carbon dioxide.

If the pH gets so low the digester “sours,” it is very difficult to revive and must be pumped out by a septic service and restarted. The Maitreya digester has not experienced this problem.

Too cold. You’ll need to know how hot the tank is, day to day, season to season. To eliminate the guesswork, install sensors both inside and outside the tank. Record these temperatures over a period of time. Then you will know how efficiently the tank is retaining heat, at what rate the temperature drops when no heat is added, and how much energy is needed to raise the temperature. If this is done, then a reliable calculation can be made of how much heat is needed to maintain working temperature if “free” heat is not available. Heat conservation, more than any other factor, determines whether a methane system will “fly” or not.

More info: http://www.homepower.com/articles/home-efficiency/equipment-products/home-cookin-homemade-biogas

DIY Biogas: Make and Use Your Own Renewable Natural Gas

Make your own homemade natural gas from food scraps, garden trimmings, and animal waste!
Understand how to craft a recipe to make your own renewable energy substitute for natural gas and propane.
DIY Biogas contains complete plans and parts lists with active links to build two different biogas generators that help you learn, understand, and grow your biogas operation. With this hands-on, minds-on guide, you’ll gain the knowledge and experience you need to convert waste into energy. Whether you’re looking for a unique science project or want to cook meals with your own backyard biogas, this book is the most practical place to start.
With fuel prices and scarcity on the rise, it’s time to re-learn how to meet our own energy needs. Start today and harvest your own local, renewable energy resource tomorrow!